Night Notes

Dear all,

It's almost 7 o'clock at night here and I'm standing on my balcony, writing to you. It's fully dark already and I can barely see this page, but the night is so beautiful I can't bring myself to turn on the porch light and cut the moment with any sudden brightness.

Thin stretches of clouds hide the stars here and there and the moon is no where in sight. Somehow, I don't miss it, the stars are enough. The air is refreshingly cool, but it still doesn't have the crisp taste of Michigan autumn air. Instead the air tastes of fried breads, not greasy or smokey really, but doughy and slightly earthy.

Lights from windows in other homes, as well as my own, light my writing. In a neighboring house, just a tall palm tree, I can see 3 elementary aged children playing. One of them has a wicker chair on his head and will doubtlessly be in trouble soon.

Even at night, Kathmandu is noisy. If the night sounds of Kathmandu were a symphony, the constant buzz of crickets would be the base on which it was built. The roar of motorcycles on the main road are like guitar wriffs tearing into the cricket buzz and the occasional dog bark and shout are like trumpet calls, one call always answered by another. Though it's getting late, you can still hear the occasional tinkle of puja bells, doubtlessly accompany smoke and prayers up to hindu dieties. My favorite sound though is the pressure cookers and frying oils releasing wheezes of hot gas in to the air and hinting at the lives being lived in the little squares of light coming from the houses all around me. Occasionally, someone on foot or motorbike comes up the path, but despite the constant murmur the night is very still.

The stillness is nice. It's been a tough day and I'm in need of some unwinding. In fact, I think today is the perfect day for rotis. There's something about making and rolling out dough that I find to be remarkably relaxing and affirming. I think maybe it's the feminine aspect of it. It requires a delicacy and gentleness that I cherish, and the sound of my new glass bangles punctuate the rolling rthyme with a whimiscal musical tinkle which I just adore. Yeah, I think that's the plan. Sorry to get mushy 0n you all, but it was too pretty of a night to keep to myself. Now I'm off to cook!

Love! Read more on "Night Notes"!

How's this for a warm welcome!

Well all, it's official. I'm an anthropologist. I've started doing some preliminary work and am as happy as a clam. I participated in my first focus group last week. Dai and I met with a group of students of varying grade levels to discuss what being Dhimal means to them. I was also able to ask a few questions regarding the tradition al garments I'm mostly focusing on. Throughout the meeting, I was amazed at the openess of the students and their excitement about my project. Everyone is eager to help and seems genuinely pleased that an American scholar would take such an interest in their culture. I left the meeting with a feeling that my work was off to a great start, but equally important, that the people I will be working with are overall sweet, kind and dynamic.

However, it wasn't until yesterday that I realized just how excited the Dhimal community is about my work. I had stayed home ill yesterday, and mid-nap my phone rang. When I answered it Dai excitedly told me that he had something that was sure to cure me. Of course, I was intrigued and pulled myself out of bed to meet him.

As I climbed on the back of Dai's motorcycle, he told me the interesting news. One of the main leaders of the Dhimal community had published an article announcing my arrival and my work in the national paper!! I was stunned. There was even a picture! (Don't worry, I'll scan it and post it here as soon as I can)

Interestingly, the article, though published in a Nepali paper, is written in Dhimali (except for the headline which remains in Nepali). This means that as of right now, I have no idea what the article says. I hope it's good! :P

The publication of the article feels like a fitting parallel to my work thus far. On the one hand, I am enormously pleased to be making the contacts that I am and the excitement of the community is clearly evident to everyone. But at the very same time, I feel that my work is still in a very tentative stage where things are clearly happening, but they are both beyond my understanding and my control.

What's more, I find new challenges to my own sense of identity and my own goals with each passing day. I'm sorry to say that i have no idea who will be coming home to you at the end of this. Maybe these posts will help map the eventual trajectory, but I think we'll all just have to wait and see.

In other nonwork related news. Roomie and I have a new house guest. In addition to Brutus, the giant spider that keeps our house bug free, I noticed this http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Krait slithering through our garden the other day. Our friend, who I've yet to name, is easily 3ft long and much faster than I would have expected. Of course, I'm only guessing that he is in fact a black Krait, but the pictures I was able to find online of this species seems to be the best match. But don't worry, I promise Roomie and I haven't stepped foot in the garden since, so I'm quite sure we're still perfectly safe.

Anyway that's all for now. I'll write again soon. With love!!!

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CNSP Photos

Just a quick note. I've put up some photos from the Cornell Nepal Study Program, where I occasionally attend lectures. Right now, it's probably my absolute favorite place to be because it's just so beautiful. It's also just outside the city in a place called Kirtipur, so it's very calm and quiet. Were I to live in Nepal more long term, I'd live in Kirtipur.

But don't worry, I'm coming home. I promise. I miss you all too much to stay away forever and ever.

All my love!!


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