Heading out!!

Hey all,

First of all, let me apologize. I owe you all a blog post on the exciting day trip I took with some friends recently and my recent visit to the Dhaka Weaves factory, but I simply haven't gotten it done yet. I'm sorry and I'll try to write on it soon.

But I did want to quickly post and let you all know that I'm heading out of the valley for at least the next week or so. That means I'll be pretty out of touch for a bit, but I'm sure the stories I bring back will be well worth it.

So until next week!

All my love!!!
Sarah
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And this is my job

Hi all,

I'm really only writing tonight to brag a little bit, so please try not to get too annoyed with me. Anyway, yesterday and today were both pretty great days. Yesterday, some relatives of my family were kind enough to allow me to attend their daughter's engagement party. It was really interesting to see how engagements happen in Nepal, but it was also a ton of fun to celebrate with the happy family. There are a few pictures up in one of the slideshow boxes, if you're interested.

This morning, I also got to go on a mini adventure. I walked all the way from Jorpati to Kopan Monastery and back, a 9 mile walk one way. Even more impressive, Kopan is at the top of what we would call a mountain. My dhimal teacher tried to convince me it was only a small hill, but once I get the pictures up you'll see why I refused to believe him. Anyway, it was well worth the trek because the monastery was gorgeous.


My guide for the trip was my dhimal teacher's high school aged daughter and it was so much fun talking with her as we went along. She is such a sweetheart and like any teenage girl, she loves to talk. I'm pretty sure I know everything about her school, and her friends, and her friends' friends now. The best part is that's exactly the kind of think I get paid to do. I feel so lucky to not only have the opportunity to spend time here in Nepal, but also to be able to be doing the kind of work I'm doing. I can't think of any better job in the world. (Please feel free to remind me of this when I'm writing and complaining constantly!)Of course, I would never write up notes on anything that my young friend told me today, because she's underage and I would consider it to be unethical, but even so, it helps to get perspective on some of the things that her elders have been telling me and really gave me an opportunity to think about other questions I might ask other Dhimal about their childhoods and their schooling.

It was also a great chance for me to work on the ways in which I relate to people during "interviews". It was fun, (personally) and useful (professionally) to see which of my stories she related to, and what things I could commiserate with her about. Now, I just have to find a way to get more mature women to be as friendly and open with me as their children are! Anyway, looking back on it, it was an interesting interaction for a lot of reasons. At one point, I remember smiling to myself because I was thinking how funny it was that I was feeling like my best friend here in Nepal is only 13 years old, and yet at another point, I was analyzing each question I asked and carefully monitoring the responses. (But before any of you worry, I've finally managed to make two good friends here, so I'm not actually bff with a freshman, and the friendlessness that some of you heard me complain about is officially passed.)

Anyway, I could say more but it appears as though my legs just realized how much work they've done today, and they are starting to protest, so I should do my homework and crawl (probably literally) in to bed! Goodnight all. As always, I'm sending my love!!
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Happy Belated Dashain

Ok all, as promised, here’s my post about the big festival we just had here in Nepal. But before I can tell you about the festival, I’m going to give you a short lesson in Nepali culture, so pay attention! ;)

According to most censuses and articles about Nepal, Nepal is a primarily Hindu kingdom and most people do things pretty much the same way, but in reality this couldn’t be farther from the truth. Actually, Nepal is a remarkably diverse country made of many many different groups of people. NEFIN (Nepal Federation of Indigenous Nationalities) recognizes somewhere between 57and 61 separate indigenous groups. In addition, among the “Hindu” population, there are numerous different castes, each with their own independent traditions and customs. I might argue they are independent cultures, but that’s a long discussion and I’ll save it for my anthropology buddies. Still, when you add in the Tibetans and other “foreigners” there are easily a hundred separate cultures here. However, the cultures have been in contact for so long that there is a lot of borrowing, re-purposing and imitating. I like to think of Nepal as a patchwork quilt of cultures that has been washed one too many times. You can still see the individual patches, but the colors are bleeding all over the place and the whole blanket has a distinctive “Nepali” hue to it. So why do you need to know this before I can start talking about the festival? You need to know because everyone I know celebrates Dashain differently, if at all, and so I’m going to be describing one of many many ways of celebrating Dashain. Even more interestingly, at least to the anthropologist in me, were the many discussions I had with different people about “traditional” celebrations of Dashain and what that meant to different people and different communities. My family is from the Rai community (an indigenous group) and I was told that the Rai community traditionally did not celebrate Dashain because it’s a Hindu holiday. That said, everyone in all of the Rai families I know celebrated Dashain and many of them were telling me how the celebrations we had were different from their “traditional” Dashain celebrations. (see, it is interesting!) but I suspect you are ready to hear about the party, so I’ll move on.



As you may or may not know, Nepal has a separate calendar then we do back in the states. Today, at least as far as I can tell, is the 26th day of Ashwin. Check out this calendar if you’re curious. It looks remarkably like the calendar hanging on my wall.  Anyway, Dashain officially began on the 20th (Oct 6th). Many people travel back to their villages or some central family home in order to celebrate, and so I headed to my Didi’s house for the holidays. In my family, the first few days of Dashain are more about getting ready than celebrating and so we spent Monday and Tuesday shopping and cleaning. On Wed, we went to Dai’s older sister’s (I call her older sister as well) house for lunch. The first few pictures are from the lunch at her house. Lunch was a lot of fun, especially because Didi and I didn’t have to cook at all. I also spent a lot of time talking with Dai’s older sister’s husband about American politics. I wish I could say that I was very brilliant and convincing, but as the whole conversation was in Nepali, I can only guess at what he thought I was trying to say. In any case, he was pleased and now teases me by calling me “Ms. President” (in Nepali). He’s a funny guy. Lunch was also great, mainly made up of 6 veggie dishes and 2 meat dishes (because it was a special occasion) and I was especially pleased because we had ice cream for dessert.

After lunch, we headed back home and started getting ready for our guests. Thursday is the most important day of Dashain for my family because it’s the tika day. Tika is the Nepali word for the red or white rice blessings that people wear on their foreheads during worship and holidays. That meant that on Wednesday night we had a lot of work to do because we were going to have a house-full on tika day. The nice thing is that Nepalis are really great about mobilizing labor for big events, and we had 3 helpers stay the night on Wednesday and two more show up early the next morning. The helpers are usually youngest siblings (of any age) or teenage cousins. Even though I had been a little concerned about all the people staying with us it ended up making all the work really festive feeling and I enjoyed the hustle and bustle leading up to Thursday’s excitement.

On Thursday morning, Dai said he got up around 4 am to start cooking. I was much lazier and slept late (almost to 7) and crawled out of bed feeling enormously guilty because everyone else was already hard at work. Of course there was plenty still to be done because cooking Nepali food is really time consuming and we needed a lot of food. We also need to make jamara bouquets. I’ve got some pics of the jamara in the slideshow. Jamara is wheat and maize grown specifically as part of the tika blessing. It can easily be purchased in the market, but Didi grew her own this year, and we took special care to keep it in the dark at all times to make sure it grew yellow instead of green. So I spent part of the morning cutting the jamara and arranging it in small bouquets. Once all the work was done, I put on my sari (with significant contribution from several of the girls) and got ready for the guests to arrive.

In all, we had about 23-24 people visit on Thursday to receive tika from Dai. Dai is the most senior male in his family living in Kathmandu right now, so all of his family members who were not in their village had to come to him to receive the blessing. Apparently, there is “supposed to be” a sanskrit blessing given when the tika is applied to the forehead, but Dai made up his own for each person. After tika is applied to the forehead, each person was given a jamara bouquet and an envelope with a little bit of money in it. And after everyone had had their tika, it was finally time to eat. And boy, did we eat. There was soo much food. I took a picture of all the dishes we had sitting in the sink after the evening, and while the picture looks like a lot the truth is that each of those dishes had probably already been washed at least twice during the day.

While Wednesday and Thursday already felt like a lot of holiday for me, we spent Friday and Saturday visiting other relatives house, this time on Didi’s side. In all we went to another 4 homes, and Didi and Dai had guests over twice more. At each house the agenda was pretty much the same. We’d wait for everyone to arrive, the most senior (or otherwise most appropriate person) would give everyone tika, and then we’d eat. Overall it was quite a party and I had a ton of fun and I learned a lot. (oh no, here it comes, more anthropology) I was especially interested in the way family relationships played such a huge part in all the festivities, and it was neat to see the way that people negotiated my position until they found something they were all comfortable with. Of course, it was also great just to be included!

Can you believe this is the short version!?! Anyway, I’m back at my apartment now and I’m gearing up to leave for my field-site in the end of Oct. I’ll try and post again before I go. Sending all my love…Sarah

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My home life

Dear all,

First off, let me apologize for the multiple posts (I’ll be posting again tomorrow with new pics once the internet connection stops hating me). I have a lot I want to tell you all about, because so many different things have been going on but they wouldn’t make sense in one big post. So, let’s just start with a quick snapshot of life with Didi and Dai, my nepali older siblings, with whom I’ve been spending most of my time. I usually stay four or five days with them, and then a night or two at my own apartment, before I’m back at their house. I don’t think I could be half as happy here in Nepal if they hadn’t given me a home. The apartment in Ranibari is nice, but without a family in it, it’s just a space.

Anyway, let’s get to the little story I wanted to tell you. Normally, I wouldn’t do this, but this excerpt from my diary sums it up perfectly. But this is from my diary, so it’s just between us, alright? 

Oct 10th
“Well, I don’t normally start with the end of the day first, but I’m so happy in this moment, I just need to dwell for a second. Right now, I’m listening to “No End in Sight” and the only thing keeping me from singing at the top of my lungs is the beautiful baby sleeping in the other room. Although, as I’ve quickly learned, in a nepali house quiet and sleep have nothing to do with each other, and the baby is sleeping peacefully through the show the Voice of India and the sound of her mommy and papa talking over it. Right now, Didi is giggling and I can just barely hear it over my music, but still it makes me smile. Just two minutes ago, I reluctantly untangled myself from my comfy seat on the couch next to her to come in here and write. Anyway, let’s start back at the beginning and we’ll get back to here and now.

This morning, I woke up to a room full of sunshine and Jyopsi not so gently demanding a bottle from Dai. But Dai was as dutiful a father as always, and pacified her without getting Didi or I up. So I laid in bed, drifting back and forth between the sunny room and my dream world. After a bit, I rolled over to face the door, and a moment later, a pint sized boss was standing next to the bed.

“Auntie!” She practically commanded.
In my best I’m still sleeping voice, I answered “Hajur”. (the nepali way of saying “yes, I’m listening”)
“Auntie!” She tried again.
And just a smidgen louder, though with a concentrated effort to sound even more pathetic. “Hajur”
“Sutyo? (asleep?)” Even questions are royal commandments from our little queen.
“Sutyo.” I answered, barely daring to hope she’d let me be. But to my suprise, she said “la (ok)”, head wobbled (a common nepali gesture that contains entire converstations), and waddled off to bother Dai. Of course, it was only ten or 15 min before she was beside my bed again demanding I got up. By that time, I was more than happy to oblige and happily crawled out of bed and went off in search of some chores.”



Of course, not every morning starts just so adorably. Often we wake at at quarter to five to the sound of Jyopsi’s crying and I jump out of bed to try and be out the door by 5:30. My Dhimali language lessons begin at 7 am each morning, and it’s a long trek out to Jorpati, so I’m always rushing early in the morning. But I usually nap when I get back home after class and then we all settle in to our daily routines. Lately, Didi has needed some extra help with housework, so I’ve been doing a lot of tea making and dish washing, but the work makes me happy and actually makes me feel even more at home at their place. But that’s enough about the general routine. Read the next post about Dashain. It’s more exciting, I promise!

Love you all so much I can hardly stand it!

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